Learning the Kustagoask Way to Shape a Loaf

The word kustagoask is entirely made up. A small group of hobby bakers came up with it as a nickname for a shaping style they kept returning to, and it spread among them from there. It does not describe a historic bread from any particular country, and nobody pretends otherwise.

What the name refers to is a way of shaping one long strand of dough into a coiled bun or loaf. You wrap the strand around a central point to build a spiral, then feed the loose end up through the hole in the middle and fold it beneath. Once baked, the result shows a soft swirl across the top and a neatly closed bottom.

The Shaping Steps

To begin a kustagoask, roll your dough into an evenly thick strand around a foot and a half to two feet in length. Hold one end against the work surface and wind the remaining strand around it, keeping the coil loose enough to leave a little opening at its heart.

Next, take the tail end and poke it up through that opening, then bring it down and tuck it under the base. This tuck locks the coil together as the loaf rises in the heat, so press it down well before moving on.

Rising and Baking

Give each shaped kustagoask its own room on the tray, because the coil widens noticeably during the second rise. Drape a towel over the pieces and wait until they look swollen and a gentle poke leaves a dent that fills back in little by little. Cutting the rise short often leaves the swirl looking muddy.

In the oven, aim for a rich brown crust and a bottom that gives a hollow knock. Little buns are done in a short while, but one big kustagoask takes far longer, so judge doneness by appearance instead of the clock.

Gathering Your Equipment

You will not need much beyond a standard bread dough.

• Dough that has finished its first rise and feels supple rather than tacky.
• A wide work surface dusted with just enough flour to prevent sticking.
• A scraper or sharp knife for portioning the dough evenly.
• A parchment-lined tray or low-sided pan for proofing the shaped pieces.
• Beaten egg or a brush of milk for a shiny crust, if you like that look.

Doughs that include some butter or milk usually keep the swirl more clearly than plain flour-and-water doughs, because they remain stretchy as you handle them. If your strand shrinks back as you roll it, cover it with a towel and let it relax for several minutes.

Troubleshooting

A kustagoask that bakes unevenly most often had a coil wrapped tighter on one side than the other. Keep the winding steady and relaxed to give the dough room to grow in every direction. A split in the middle typically points to a weak tuck, which a firmer pinch will solve.

Strands that rip during coiling are another common complaint, usually caused by dough that is too tight or slightly dry. Give it a rest or work in a few drops of water. After a handful of attempts, shaping a kustagoask feels natural, and because the term is invented, you can change the size or topping in any direction that appeals to you.